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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.070



    - Athearn diesel locomotive with "superpower" drive. They make
      a wide range of locomotives, so pick whatever looks good.
      The "superpower" drive means it has flywheels and a heavy
      weight, both of which make it run better, and it only runs
      about $5 more than the base models.  $26-33

    - Several Athearn car kits.  They make both freight and
      passenger, so pick whetever interests you (or the
      recipient).  Freight cars are about $4-5, passenger $7.

    - MRC Tech II Railpower 1400 power pack. You'll need a few
      feet of wire and an Atlas terminal track section to attach
      it to the track. $41 (+ $2 for the terminal)

    - Enough Atlas Nickel-silver track to make an oval.  4 packs
      of 18" curves and 2 packs of straight will do. $2.80/pack

    - A copy of Model Railroader magazine. The December issue
      always has articles aimed at newcomers, but most issues will
      have introductory-level articles. $2.95

    The stuff above will make the minimum starter set, for just
    over $100, depending on the engine and cars purchased.  If you
    want to go for something slightly more advanced consider
    adding some of the following items:

    - 2 or so Atlas Snap turnouts (track switches), $6 each
      unpowered.  Get both left and right handed.

    - An Atlas pier set combined with one of their bridge kits.
      To make an over-under figure-8 layout you'll also need
      another package of curved track.  $10 for the pier set,
      bridges are $4-10.

    - Some building kits.  The Atlas passenger station kit is a
      classic kit which is well manufactured and can be built into
      a nice looking kit with a little time.  Probably not too
      good for a young child since it has lots of parts.  Kits run
      $5-15 for simpler ones, much more in some cases.  Include
      some Testor's liquid glue [in a cubical glass bottle.  The
      thicker version in a orange/white tube is junk]  (also not
      great around young children; for that matter, it give me a
      headache sometimes) and an X-Acto knife.

I have picked these items from personal experience - there are
undoubtedly equally good choices from other manufacturers.  Everything
listed here should be available at most hobby stores which carry train
equipment. Your best bet is to find a hobby store which specializes in
model railroads and tell them you want to assemble something like
this.  They should be able to show you the items listed here as well
as alternatives which you might prefer.

Q. What should I buy if I'm willing to spend more money?

Higher quality locomotives can be purchased from Atlas, Stewart, and
KATO (who make the mechanisms for some other brands as well).  These
models run very well, have more accurate and refined details, and will
cost about $100 for a single locomotive.  Life-Like has a premium line
called "Proto 2000" and Bachman has one called "Spectrum" which offer
medium level products in the $50-75 range.

In addition to Athearn, MDC (Model Die Casting, also known as
Roundhouse) makes good quality kits in the $5-10 range, and they are
about as easy to find as Athearn.  They make more of the modern
equipment than does Athearn.

Q. What if I just won the lottery?

Brass models are regularly imported by a small collection of companies
based in Japan and South Korea.  These are limited run (~100 units)
models of specific prototypes, hand-made from brass.  They are usually
delivered unpainted but some runs offer factory painted units at an
extra cost.  The majority of these models are of locomotives, with
steam more abundant than diesel or electric.  Passenger cars and
cabooses are also fairly common, with occaisonal freight and
maintenance-of-way cars offered.  The main appeal of these models is
that well-made ones will be exact models of particular prototypes with
a high level of detail.  They also come with high quality drives,
something quite difficult to find in cheaper steam locomotives.

The cheapest brass locomotives in HO are offered by Sunset Ltd., with
most models in the $200-300 range.  They are reportedly good runners
with a fairly low level of detail.  Highly detailed models are offered
by the other importers, with steam prices in the $450-1000+ range,
diesels in the $200-400+ range. O scale models can run twice as much
as these prices. The best bet is to find either a local dealer or a
reputable mail-order importer who can advise you on what looks good
for the money.

Most of these items are sold by advance reservation, so by the time
the model actually arives there may not be any left for sale. The
models are advertised in advance of production so that you can place
an order in time. Used models can be purchased and can be a good value
if purchased from a reputable dealer who is honest about the quality.

Q. What companies make good equipment in G scale?

[The description of G-scale equipment was written by John Haskey]

In my opinion, Bachman track should be avoided like the plague.  If
you don't want to spend big bucks on LGB track, check out the REA
track.  REA makes very decent track and is usually cheaper than LGB.
The Bachman track will do nothing but disappoint you.

On the other hand, the Bachman Locos and rolling stock are a very economical
way to get into G-scale railroading.  Their locos are noisier than their LGB
counterparts but consider this: a Bachman 4-6-0 can be had for as little as
$80 mail-order and it comes with lights, smoke, & sound.  A similiar LGB loco
will cost over $500.  Granted, the LGB loco will probably last a lifetime but
for someone getting started the Bachman loco represents a good value.  Make
sure you avoid the Bachman battery powered remote controlled locos though.
I have friends who have been less than thrilled with them.  Bachman's rolling
stock is serviceable out of the box and, as others have mentioned, can be
vastly improved by replacing the trucks and couplers.  Their kits have great
potential for kitbashing, etc.

I personally own both Bachman and LGB and don't regret purchasing either
brand.  If you're rich and have disposable income, by all means go out and
get that LGB starter set, a few hundred feet of LGB track, and lots of cars
and locos.  On the other hand you could start with a loop of REA track, a
MRC throttle, and a Bachman train and be well on your way as well.

Introduction to diesel locomotives
----------------------------------

Q. I am trying to gain some very basic knowledge about diesel engines
   so that I can buy the models with some intelligence. Could someone
   give me the basic rundown of the different classes of diesel
   engines and what they were used for?

[This answer was edited from material written by Fred Ochs]

A. Locomotive manufacturers

    EMD:     Electro-Motive Division of General Motors
    GE:      General Electric
    Alco:    Americal Locomotive Works
    Baldwin: Baldwin Locomotive Works
    Lima:    Lima-Hamilton
        BLH:     Baldwin,Lima,Hamilton

    (Baldwin, Lima, and Hamilton are all towns in Ohio.  These
     companies started out making steam locomotives.  They never
     really succeeded in the transition to diesel, and even after
     merging eventually went out of business.)

    MLW:     Montreal Locomotive Works
        FM:      Fairbanks-Morse
    Only EMD and GE are still producing railroad locomotives.

A. A few naming conventions.

Diesel locomotives are designated by the number of powered axles,
divided into trucks.  The letters A,B,C,D stand for 1 through 4 axles,
so an EMD FT (see below) with 2 trucks with two driving axles is a
B-B. Early locomotives were made with A1A trucks (2 axles, the center
one unpowered).

A units have a cab with controls for the engineer.
B units are basically A units with no controls.
Slugs are a cut-down frame filled with concrete.  They have only
   traction motors, and receive power from an attached engine.

A. Names of locomotives

EMD's first main model was the FT which I'm sure stood for freight.
(Commonly referred to as "the Diesel That Did It" since it was the
first practical replacement for mainline steam power.)

It had 1350 HP(horse power) They were designed to be semi-permanently
coupled and sold usually as sets. (Initially most railroads numbered
them as one locomotive with unit designators such as A,B,C,D to get
around union rules requiring a full crew for each locomotive.)

This was followed by the following engines:
    F2A,F2B 1350HP
        F3A,F3B,F7A,F7B 1500HP
    F9A,F9B 1750 HP

We also have the E unit, similar in appearance to the F unit, except
it has A1A trucks. They also have 2 diesel engines in them, to give them more
HP.
    EA,EB,E1A,E1B,E2A,E2B 1800HP
    E3A,E3B,E4A,E4B,E5A,E5B,E6A,E6B,E7A,E7B 2000HP
    E8A,E8B 2250 HP E9A,E9B 2400 HP

Before making the F7, EMD introduced a new model type, called the BL1
It stood for Branch Line, had 1500 HP, and had the same motor that the F7
and GP7 (which I will explain) did. They followed this by the BL2,
although it is argued what the change was. This engine had most of the
cab style, with notches along each side, that would allow the engineer
to see behind him better.

This was followed by the GP7 (and concurrently produced with the F7)
The GP series stood for General Purpose, and had walkways along each hood.
It camein both passenger and freight versions. Passenger versions had a
steam generator in the short hood (typically called the nose) to heat the
passenger cars. This engine had B trucks and 1500 HP
here is a list of GP style engines:
    GP7 1500 HP
    GP9 1750 HP
    GP15 1500 HP
    GP18 1800 HP
    GP20,GP28,GP38 2000 HP
    GP30 2250 HP
    GP39 2300 HP
    GP35 2500 HP
    GP40 3000 HP
    GP40X 3500 HP
    GP50 3500/3600 HP
    GP60 3800 HP  (current model)

The next frieght style is the SD series, which stands for Special Duty.
These have C trucks, instead of B trucks, and are typically a lot heavier
then their GP counter part. here is a list of their models:
    SD7 1500 HP
    SD9 1750 HP
    SD18 1800 HP
    SD24 2400 HP
    SD28,SD38 2000 HP
    SD35 2500 HP
    SD39 2300 HP
    SD40 3000 HP
    SD45 3600 HP
    SD45X 4200 HP
    SD50 3500/3600 HP
    SD60 3800 HP (current model)
    SD70 4000 HP (newest model, in initial production)

Then there is the later F series, which was basically like the GP and
SD, but had cowling over the engine, instead of walkways. This cowling
is not part of the structural support, like the earlier F series.
These engines include:
    F40PH 3000 HP standard Amtrak engine everyone knows and loves :)
    F45, FP45 3600 HP (the FP had a steam generator in it)
    SD40F,SD50F and SD60F which are SD40,SD50/SD60's with cowling
        over them instead of walkways. Bought by Canadian RR's.

Now to the switchers, another long list!  A switcher is typically,
small, lightweight, and has a cab at one end, and no nose, instead it
usually has large windows for visibility.  EMD started out with the NC
which had 900 HP, and was experimental.  then followed with the
following models:
    SC,SW 600 HP (SC stood for cast frame, SW stood for welded)
    NC, NC1, NC2, NW, NW1, NW1A 900 HP (C for cast, W for welded)
    NW2,NW4 900 HP
    SW1 600 HP
    NW3,NW5 1000 HP
    SW8 800 HP
    SW600 600 HP
    SW900 900 HP
    SW7 700 HP
    SW9,SW1200 1200 HP
    SW1000,SW1001 1000 HP
    SW1500, MP15 1500 HP
        (MP stands for Multi Purpose, still looks like a
        switcher though, and is the current production model)

The other odd model EMD produced was the DD series, which had DD trucks.
These were double ended diesels, and were roughly like 2 engines put
together in one. They had the following:
    DD35A,DD35B 5000 HP
    DDA40X 6600 HP
Only Union Pacific had the DDA40X and the DD35A.
Both UP and Southern Pacific had the DD35B

GE is a bit easier to describe. They started with the U series, which
stood for Universal. They are either B or C, based on the type of trucks.
All GE models use their HP in hundreds as part of the model designation,
along with the type of trucks and the engine series.
The U series had the following models:
    U18B 1800 HP
    U23B,U23C 2250 HP
    U25B,U25C 2500 HP
    U28B,U28C 2800 HP
    U30B,U30C 3000 HP
    U33B,U33C 3300 HP
    U36B,U36C 3600 HP

There was also a U50 and U50C which was a double U25, with either 2 sets of
B trucks on a span bolster (U50) or on C trucks (U50C)
Sometime in the late 70's (1977 I think) they dropped the U series, and
went to the -7 series, all models produced there after looked like this:
    B23-7,C23-7 2300 HP
    B30-7,C30-7 3000 HP
    B36-7,C36-7 3600 HP
    B32-8,C32-8 3200 HP
    B36-8,C36-8 3600 HP
    B38-8,C39-8 3900 HP (current model)
    B40-8.C40-8 4000 HP (current model)

They have also flipped the designation to DASH-8 40B and DASH-8 40C

There is also a modification on the current production of engines,
that being a cowl (like described before) or a safety cab.
For EMD's the wide nose is designated by adding an M after the model name
(like SD60M or GP60M) on GE is is a W, (Like CW40-8,DASH-8 40BW)
They also have the full width cowl with a W (DASH 8-40CW) bought only
by Canadian National and BC Rail (British Columbia Railway)

Most of this information is in the _Second Diesel Spotters Guide_ or
_Diesel Spotters Update_

Q. How does a diesel locomotive work?

A. Actually, this is a trick question.  Locomotives come in
diesel-electric, diesel-hydraulic, and as a test a steam-electric
engine was built.  The first part of the name indicates how the power
is generated and the second how it is transmitted to the driving
wheels.

The diesel engines are huge internal combustion engines (sometimes
more than one per locomotive), named after Rudolf Diesel who patented
the concept in 1892.  In a diesel-electric they are used to power
electric generators, and the electricity is used to drive electric
motors.  These are called traction motors and one is attached by a
gear system to each powered axle.

I don't know the details of how diesel-hydraulic engines work, but
basically something like an automatic transmission is used to connect
the diesel motors to the axles via driveshafts (I'm making this all
up, so feel free to correct me!)  It turns out to be very difficult to
build these to handle the large loads involved, so all modern
locomotives are of the diesel-electric variety.

Finally we have the steam-electric.  I don't have the references in
front of me, but I believe the New York Central experimented with an
engine which looked like an F3 but which had a coal-powered steam
boiler which as used to run a generator, with the rest of the system
as in a diesel-electric.  This is even more speculative than the
diesel-hydraulic description, so don't bet any money on it.

Q. What are "dynamic" brakes

A. As described in the previous question, diesel-electric locomotives
have motors attached to each axle.  Normally power is supplied to the
motors causing the wheels to pull the train.  However, due to the
magic of electromagnetics, if the wheels are turned by an external
force (such as gravity pulling a train down a hill) the motors will
run as dynamos, generating electricity.  Since energy is conserved,
this electric power has to come from somewhere, which in this case is
the kinetic energy of the engine.  In simple English, running the
motors as dynamos will put a drag on the engine, which can be helpful
when running a very heavy train down a long grade.

The amount of electric power generated is substantial, and it has to
be used up somehow to cause a drag on the wheels.  This is done by
placing a bank of resistors on the top of the locomotive which convert
the electricity to heat which is then radiated away.  These resistors
on the top appear as a bulging grille near the center of most engines.
Model shells are often made with these bulges (sometimes removable),
although they of course have no function.  A given prototype
locomotive is usually available both with and without dynamic brakes.

Q. How do steam locomotives work?

A. Another trick question!  I'm not really familiar with all of the
details, so I'm really writing this in the hopes of getting netters to
provide more authoratative answers.

Steam engines came in three basic varieties: reciprocating pistons,
geared drives, and experimental turbines.  All work by boiling water
to make pressurized steam, and the energy in this steam is used to
move the engine.  The earliest engines burned wood for fuel. Most
steam engines used coal, and towards the end of the steam era oil was
used, primarily to get around air pollution regulations.

In a reciprocating piston design the pressurized steam is sent into
expansion cylinders, which were usually mounted on the outside front
end of the frame.  The steam expands to push a piston back, and the
piston is connected via a crosshead to the main driving rods.  These
rods connect the linear motion of the piston to the circular motion of
the driving wheels.  There are many variations on this design, such as
using multiple cylinders to increase the amount of energy extracted
from the steam but they all fall into the category of improvements to
the basic design.  Note that once the steam has been used it is
exhausted to the atmosphere, which is why the tender on a steam
locomotive is mostly water and a relatively minor amount of fuel.
Note that this design with lots of exposed moving parts is also
significantly sexier than a diesel electric...

I have no idea how geared locomotives work - perhaps some logging
expert will write a few paragraphs on the issue?

As a PRR fan I will attempt to describe their turbine engines - other
experiments may have differed in the details.  As before steam is
produced, but rather than using pistons is was fed through a rotating
turbine which was directly geared to the driving wheels.  Apparently
the design did a fairly good job of producing power efficiently, but
the steam had minute particles of coal ash in it which rapidly
destroyed the finely balanced turbine blades, making it impractical to
maintain.

Track
-----

Q. Nickel-silver vs. brass: what are the issues?

Nickel-silver is a copper-nickel alloy (mostly copper), considered to
be metalurgically similar to brass but superior in corrosion
resistance.  Brass oxidizes rapidly to a non-conducting surface, which
means that power will not reach the locomotives or cars, resulting in
stalls.  Both forms of track will accumulate other gunk on them,
requiring some form of cleaning.  In general, nickel silver is much
better than brass, and is worth the small extra cost.

The more recently developed alloys used in high-quality G scale track
are much less corrosion-prone.  Brass is sometimes favored over
nickel-silver for outdoor use, because it expands and contracts
somewhat less with changes in temperature.

Q. What does the number associated with a turnout mean?  What's the
difference between, say, a #4 turnout and a #6 turnout?

The number is based on the angle between the straight and diverging
tracks.  Skipping the exact definition, a #4 turnout is generally the
sharpest practical size and is equivalent to an 18" curve.  #6s and
#8s are more gradual and are typically used on larger layouts both
because they look more realistic and because longer equipment will
work better on them.

Traction models and models in the smallest scales (N and Z) can often
get good results with much smaller turnout numbers, down to #2.5 in
common usage.

Q. What does the "code" associated with track mean?

This is the height of the rail, expressed in thousandths of an inch.
Code 100 rail (common in HO) is 0.100 inches high.  This is equivalent
to prototype rail weighing 152 pounds per yard, which is larger than
almost all rail used in this country.  Advanced modelers typically use
rail sizes closer to that used on the prototype, as shown below:

Nominal |   Mass   |  Scale   | Scale  |  Scale   |
Scale   |  Market  | Mainline | Branch |  Mining  |
---------------------------------------------------
G, #1   |  .330    |  .250    |  .175  |   .125   |
---------------------------------------------------
O       |  .175    |  .148    |  .125  |   .100   |
---------------------------------------------------
S       |  .148    |  .125    |  .100  |   .086   |
---------------------------------------------------
HO/OO   |  .100    |  .083    |  .070  |   .055   |
---------------------------------------------------
N       |  .080    |  .055    |  .040  |   n/a    |
---------------------------------------------------
Z       |  .062    |   n/a    |   n/a  |   n/a    |
---------------------------------------------------

Q. When handlaying track, how/when do you folks glue down the ballast?

Ballast is added in the same fashion for both handlaid and
prefabricated track. The roadbed is prepared and the track laid in
position using your favorite method before any ballast is added. The
method described below also works just as well for grass, dirt, etc.
in the rest of the layout.

There are several methods, but the basic idea is to spread the ballast
in place (I use a cheap 1" paintbrush to shape it), soak it with some
sort of wetting agent, and then flow a fixative into it.  Variants
abound - this is a FAQ in the model railroading magazines as well, so
look there for alternatives.

The most common wetting agent is tap water with a drop or two of
standard dishwashing liquid added to cut the surface tension (the
water will just bead up otherwise and won't soak the ballast).  This
can be sprayed on with a *fine* mister or carefully dripped on with an
eye dropper.  The most common fixative is a 50-50 mixture of white
glue and water, again with a drop of detergent.  This is dripped onto
the ballast and allowed to dry.  All of the water will evaporate, so
the ballast should be as wet as possible without floating it away;
otherwise you may just glue down a top crust which will chip away
later.

Q. Also, who makes good ballast material, and do you mix/combine
   several coarsenesses or make it uniform?

Woodland Scenics is probably the most popular brand, but at least one
poster described it as looking like kitty litter; a bit harsh but not
far from the mark in my opinion.  Their finest grade should be used by
N and HO scales, and it's really too coarse for N.

The other major source is actual rock.  You can just walk outside if
you live in the area you model, you can try the local quarry or gravel
operation to see if you can get a small sample, or you can order it
from several operations which advertise in the model railroading
magazines.  If you use real rock you must crush it, sift it to size,
and then remove any ferrous particles with a magnet.

Note that most real railroads use ballast that is available locally,
so the color of your ballast will differ based on the area modelled.
Most of it is a standard gray, but iron ore roads have a distinct
reddish hue, and RMC just finished a series about a marble quarrying
railroad which used marble chips!

Roadbed
-------
[The following description of Homasote was written by Gregg Fuhriman]

            My Experiences
            --------------
Homasote is a material made of densely compressed newsprint, and is
usually sold in 4' x 8' x 1/2" sheets.  It is also available to the
model railroad hobby as precut roadbed strips.  My experience is with
the large sheets, which I purchased from a building supply store.  In
1987, one sheet cost around 25 dollars.

I cut it into many 8' strips, using a rotary saw set at 45 degree
angle to get the "ballast slope".  The ascii drawing below shows an
edge-on view of how I cut the Homasote sheets:

                 |   |<---- wide enough for track
        ___________________________________________________________
    |\   /   \   /   \   /   \   /   \   /   \   /   \   /   \|
    -----------------------------------------------------------
            <---------- 4' ---------->

These strips were then used as-is for straight roadbed.  To make curves,
I cut dozens of kerfs crossways about 3/4 of the way through the strip and
about 1/2" apart.  The strip could then be "bent" into the desired curvature
by compressing the kerfs on the inside of the curve.  The purpose of this
exercise was to reduce wasted Homasote; it is not a cheap material.

The homasote strips were then glued to plywood sub-roadbed using carpenter's
glue and clamps.  I also drove small nails through the Homasote into the
plywood to help hold things in the right position while the glue dried.
Special shapes, like around switch stands, were shaped by hand using a
utility knife to carve the homasote.

        Summary of My Experience and Netter's Comments
        ----------------------------------------------
Benefits of Homasote are that it holds spikes and nails well, and it is
a sound-deadening material to reduce train noise.  It glues easily, as it
is a porous material.  It is relatively "soft", so it cuts easily.

Cutting this material with a power saw generated piles of fluffy, gray
dust that went everywhere and proved to be a pain to clean up.  I
reccommend wearing a dust filter to avoid breathing in the dust and
fluff.  Cutting with a utility knife is neater, but more difficult and
tedious as the homosote tends to "grab" the blade (just as it "grabs"
spikes and nails).

Forming curves with the kerf-and-bend method was not 100% successful.
At least half the time the strip would break in two.  Also, the resulting
curve is not super smooth ... they are actually several short straight
sections.  Heavy sanding can smooth out some of this (but with more dust).

Other netters have suggested painting the Homasote with a latex paint to
help seal it against moisture (introduced mostly during ballasting, but
also to guard against ambient humidity).  Its dimensional stability with
respect to temperature and humidity has been panned, though I have not
noticed problems with my layout so far.

Miscellaneous
-------------

Q. What are Kadee couplers and why should I use them?

Most locomotives and rolling stock come with an industry-standard
coupler - for HO they are X2f (commonly called horn-hook) and for N
they are Rapido.  These couplers are only suitable for those who don't
plan to do much switching and coupling/uncoupling of the cars, their
primary advantage being that they are free and require virtually no
adjustment.

Kadee makes a line of more prototypical looking couplers that are
available in all common scales and which are used by most serious
modelers.  They are magnetically operated, allowing you to uncouple
cars without touching them.  Uncoupling ramps made of permanent
magnets or electromagnets can be positioned at strategic places on
your layout to perform this uncoupling.  Rix (another company) sells
an inexpensive magnetic rod which can be held between the cars to
uncouple them without removing them from the tracks.  Note that Kadee
couplers are not compatible with the standard couplers, so once you
switch you'll have to convert all of your equipment.  In HO the most
common size (#5) costs $2.95 for a package of 4 (2 cars).

Credits
-------
While I take all responsibility for anything you don't like, I haven't
put this together all by myself.  Portions of this file have been
contributed by the following people:

[e-mail] (David G. Baird)
[e-mail] (Steven Bellovin)
[e-mail] (Ben Dibble)
[e-mail] (Bill Gripp)
zehntel![e-mail] (Gregg Fuhriman)
[e-mail] (John Haskey)
[e-mail] (Andre' Hut)
[e-mail] (Mark Johnson)
[e-mail] (Mark Johnson) [same person?]
[e-mail] (Van Kelly)
[e-mail]
[e-mail] (Fred Ochs)
[e-mail] (Matt Pedersen)
[e-mail]
[e-mail]
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From: [e-mail] (Eric Muller)
Newsgroups: comp.lang.modula3,news.answers
Subject: Modula-3 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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Date: 1 Oct 92 19:16:51 GMT
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